Time traveling

I knew that my sabbatical travel would take me to a variety of cultures and historical periods. How true that has proved to be.

Switzerland transported me to the early 20th century when my grandfather and most of his siblings began their journeys of emigration from the lush Diemtigen region of the Simmental Valley to begin new lives in Wisconsin.

As Lake Como revealed itself through the rain after our first day, Chris and I received a history lesson from a wonderful English gentleman( who, it turned out is both a lawyer and rabbi!) who shared tidbits of local history, especially the story of Caroline, the “wife” of England’s King George III (though he was still married to someone else), who held court not far from Tremezzo.. He also told us that “Il Duce” Mussolini had been captured just down the road. Also just down the road, in the city of Como, we understand that there was a George Clooney sighting, as he owns a home on the lake. We didn't see him!

We traveled back to the 19th century during our days on the Italian Riviera. It was not hard to imagine why the five towns of the Cinque Terre remained isolated until the 1920’s when a second train line was blasted through the mountains that separated the tiny villages. Much later a local trail between the five towns became popular for adventurous walkers and hikers. It took us a full 6 hours to walk the seven mile trail, and not just because we were enjoying the incredible vistas that emerged with every turn. In reality, this was one of the hardest trails I’ve ever hiked, as we went up and down continuously on very narrow (often 1 person wide), rocky or uneven terrain. If you ever come to the Cinque Terre, think twice about the hike! The trains or ferry boats can take you between the towns much more quickly, and easily! I even experienced cramps in my knees from the down-hill work!

Our “time machine” took us back even further today (the 14th) as we visited the Tuscan hill towns of Montepulciano and Pienza. The tunnels and subterranean crypts of the pre-Roman Etruscan culture are a drawing card. One gentleman, who noticed that we were admiring a fountain that was almost hidden in a building courtyard, invited me to step inside and take my photos, as he proudly told us that the fountain was built in the Fourth Century A.D.! Pienza was re-created in the 15th Century by a native son who had become Pope Pius II, and it sits atop a crest and surrounded by the golden and green rolling hills stereotypical of Tuscany.

Of course, Montepulciano is only 4 km from our little cottage on the beautiful agri-tourismo farm where Laura and her family welcomed us. We’re going to re-visit the town more than once before we leave on the 26th. Actually, we’ll need to, as we have no internet or telephone reception below the hills! Though it is a little limiting, it reminds us of what life can be all about, A quiet meal of pasta and sauce, and a glass of Nobile de Montepuciano (2004), surrounded by the vineyards and olive groves, even in the fast-paced 21st Century – a far cry from the time of the Etruscan people.